Forestter Blog

By Norman C. Bezona Professor emeritus, University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources In Hawaii, growing roses is always a rewarding challenge to the gardener. Roses are cool climate plants that do best at elevations of 1,000 feet or more. At lower elevations, insects and disease problems are aggravated. At best, roses require specific care or they will not do well. Roses come in two main classes, dormant and container grown. The dormant rose plants are usually shipped in from the mainland. Container grown plants are available after the nursery has given them a good start. Rootstocks vary, but research in Hawaii suggests that roses grown on Rosa fortuniana rootstock are best for low elevations. Other rootstocks used are Dr. Huey, manetti and multiflora. Plant roses for cut flowers in a separate bed because they must be pruned properly, covered most of the time with protective fungicides, and denuded of old flowers. Select a site in a sunny location. In the event the bed is located near large plants, protect the rose bushes from marauding roots with a sheet of metal roofing buried vertically along the side of the bed. Prepare the planting site prior to securing the rose bushes. If the soil is sandy or rocky, remove it to a depth of 15 inches and replace with compost of well rotted leaves, aged manure, peat moss and soil. For best growth, be sure the replaced material is on the acid side. Roses do better in soils that have a generous amount of organic matter. Be sure the planting holes are large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. In the bottom of each hole, drop a handful of slow release garden fertilizer. Dip the roots of each plant in a bucket of water just before planting. Install the new bush so that the root system will stand at the same level that it stood in the nursery container. Keep an eye out for diseases such as black spot, brown canker, and powdery mildew. Insect pests that may harm the bushes will include aphids, thrips, cottony-cushion scale, red spider mites, and assorted night feeding rose beetles. Rose Beetles are found at 2500 feet elevation and lower, but are seldom a problem at higher elevations. Your garden supply store has specific insecticides and fungicides available. These will need to be applied on a regular program. Garden shops also have fertilizers labeled as “Rose Food.” These should be applied as directed on the container. Since roses require continuous feeding and pest control, they are placed in the high maintenance category, high, at least, when compared to the care required by the average flowering shrubs. The requirements also include regular “grooming” or removing unwanted or unsightly parts from rose plants to improve their growth and appearance. Let’s take a closer look at this matter of grooming. What is included in this inspection and trimming of rose plants? Why is grooming the plants considered a regular part of their care? And, how often is grooming needed? Roses bloom throughout the year in Hawaii. Of course, this does not mean that they are constantly covered with flowers, but there are five to seven periods during the year when many flowers open on a plant at one time. These peaks of flower production or “flushes” of bloom are separated by periods of four to eight weeks when flowers are opening. It is after each flush of bloom that we find rose bushes to be in need of grooming. Approach the grooming job armed with a pair of sharp pruning shears and a portable basket or container to carry away unwanted parts trimmed from the bush. Spent flowers should be removed by cutting just above a well formed leaf. Usually the first or second leaf under the flower is a good place to make the cut. Just as in harvesting flowers for indoor use, this trimming to remove spent flowers must include consideration of the development of the new flowering shoots. Making a clean, sloping cut just above the leaf bud will permit its best possible future growth. Long or ragged stubs should be avoided. Preventing fruit development is one of the reasons for grooming the rose plant after each main period of flowering. If left on the plant, the base to which the petals are attached will usually enlarge, forming a small apple like fruit called a rose hip. By removing the faded flowers, energy needed to form the fruit can be diverted to production of additional flowering growth. At the same time that spent flowers are being removed, the bush should be inspected for the presence of any dead wood that can serve as a reservoir for parasitic organisms that cause dieback of rose canes. Dead wood should be cut from the plant whenever it is found. Also, any shoots developing from the rootstock below the graft union should be removed. Picking off yellow or brown leaves is the final step in the practice of grooming. Since these spent leaves will soon fall off naturally, their removal is of less importance than removing dead wood, spent flowers, and root suckers. However, picking leaves that have completed their life span and are ready to drop will improve the appearance of the plant. Grooming, pest control and fertilization are time consuming practices, but your plants will respond by giving you loads of flowers in return.

This will be my last column until sometime in November. We will be traveling in Europe and maybe North Africa for a change of scenery and to see how folks are getting along there. Meanwhile, let’s take a moment to reflect on how we are getting along here. Good fences and hedges make good neighbors goes the old saying, and maybe in the old days it was the case. They may be used for privacy, to keep animals in or out or to exclude other folks. Stone walls are traditional and impressive, but expensive. Today, we have so many choices that an unattractive fence or hedge might create all kinds of neighbor problems depending on type of material used. Take the case of the two fellows who got into a feud because the chain link fence one put up made the other feel like he was in the County Prison. Another example was the neighbor who used running bamboo for the hedge. It wasn’t long before the bamboo spread into the neighbor’s lawn and created a mini grove. Clumping bamboo that won’t run rampant would have been the proper choice. A third example is the guy who planted a bougainvillea hedge and then decided to go on a trip around the world for a year. Bougainvillea makes a great hedge or screen, but when left unattended, it can get a bit wild. Bougainvilleas are interesting plants from South America. They can be kept as a beautiful hedges, topiaries or allowed to become colorful vines climbing high into a large tree. Some of the best uses are as screening plants along roads to hide unsightly industrial views like those used at the entrance to the Kona airport. Bougainvilleas may also be used on wide median strips like the entrance to Kailua. Bougainvillea plants are drought tolerant and flower best in dry sunny climates. Visualize the drive from the Kona Airport to Kailua as an eight mile riot of color like no other in America and perhaps the world. It would be far less expensive to maintain than grass that takes constant mowing and is usually full of weeds. Probably the main negative is that the plants are often quite thorny. When used in a median strip landscape this is an advantage because it keeps pedestrians and cars from crossing traffic. Screening on smaller home sized landscape may require fences to keep animals or children in bounds. However, chain link, concrete block and many other fence and wall materials do look kind of harsh and unsightly. They just don’t give that luxurious tropical feeling. So here’s where vines make ideal companions. Concrete and chain link make ideal supports for the many types we have available like the Red Passion Flower, Jade Vine, Kuhio Vine, Potato Vine, Creeping Fig and many others. Vines serve many purposes for the gardener. Take the one that produces egg-like gourds — it’s ideal for the practical joker. Then there is a vine that specializes in dishcloth production, called the Luffa. Bird lovers like Flame Vine because they attract birds. Other lovers like the privacy vines give them when sitting on the lanai. Many folks like vines because they harbor chameleons, anoles and geckos. Many song birds like vines because they are good nesting locations. And, last but not least, vines are fine because of their attractiveness both in foliage and flowers. Vines lend contrast and character to landscape plantings. They accentuate architectural lines, especially the closely clinging species. Many creepers are adept at introducing color, form and texture onto otherwise uninteresting objects, fences, shrubs or trees. Many gardeners say that vines are the best plants yet, to give their homes an air of tropical living by using them to cover passageways or to form patio walls. Ornamental vines, as a group, are well adapted to a wide range of soils. Most of them thrive in sand, clay, or rock land, provided plant food and moisture are adequate. Soil preparation is most important in a vine planting project. Time spent in improving the soil will insure that you will produce vigorous plants and possibly have trouble-free care later. To get a project underway, spread about 4 inches of compost, peat, leaf mold, or well decomposed manure over the area where the vines will be planted. As a topping, sprinkle the area with fertilizer, and then mix the organic material and soil with a spade. In selecting a location for vines, give them plenty of room. Before planting vines close to a tree, remove the tree roots in the immediate area—but not too many roots, or the tree may die. Such trees as Ohia will not stand much root snitching. If you are using a tree to support the vines, don’t let it completely cover the tree or it may be harmful. Some trees like citrus do not do well when competing with vines. The soil at the base of masonry construction often contains trouble-making debris, so remove the contaminated soil to a depth of 18 inches. Replace it with a good soil taken from another location. The planting season for vines is any time the notion strikes you, provided the vines are small, thrifty, container-grown plants. In planting, dig a hole that is larger than the root ball. If the plant is in a container, carefully remove the plant without disturbing the roots and settle it in the hole at the same depth it was in the container. Partially fill in around the plant with soil. Water thoroughly. Finish filling the hole and water again. When two or more vines growing side by side become hopelessly entwined, the effect can indeed be attractive. Vines can complement one another in several different ways: An evergreen vine hides the bareness of a deciduous vine; vines blooming at different seasons extend the flowering season; vines blooming at the same time can display handsome color contrasts or blends. There are dozens of tropical vines available here on the Big Island. The

Temperatures remain warm but things are about to change. Fall will officially arrive Sept. 22 in the northern hemisphere since the sun will move south of the equator. The autumnal equinox for us is spring for those south of the equator. As the earth tips to the north the sun appears to move further from us, days are shorter and plants tend to slow their growth. Living in Hawaii, even though we don’t see the brilliant fall colors ablaze in the forests and gardens of the mainland, we can improvise. So now is the time for nursery and garden store shopping. You can find some great ideas for bringing the feeling of fall into our gardens. Where nights are cool and days frequently cloudy, try some of the fancy new Impatiens hybrids. The New Guinea hybrids are especially attractive. These new hybrids are much more compact and flower abundantly. They come in all flower colors and have multicolored leaves as well. Other Impatiens on the market are the traditional types hybridized to be compact and floriferous. Fall in Hawaii is colorful with African Tulip, Timor Shower, Rainbow Shower and even the Royal Poinciana trees in late bloom. Also flowering now are several species of Bauhinia or Orchid trees. One seldom seen here but common in cooler regions of South America is the Silk Floss Tree or Ceiba speciosa. This close relative of the Kapok tree is rare here but popular in Southern California. Some Hawaii nurseries will bring it in on request from California nurseries. Your garden could be even brighter with the addition of crotons, bougainvillea and hibiscus just to mention a few. Besides the many tropical ornamentals trees and shrubs available, you might also consider colorful annuals and perennials to brighten your winter garden or lanai. Many of the annual summer flowers that are prized most on the mainland are at their best here from November to May. These annuals are usually tolerant of cool weather. Since the winter temperature never goes extremely low, they thrive here, especially at higher elevations like Kamuela and Volcano. Some, like the marigold are great the year around. They are especially good for sunny dryer locations. The Marigold is native to the Southwestern United States and to Mexico. It grows well and is popular in every state of our Union from Florida to Maine, from Hawaii to Alaska. When Cortez conquered ancient Mexico, he found Marigolds growing there. The gorgeous golden Marigolds were so beautiful that Cortez took seeds with him back to Spain. There, Marigolds became the favorite flower of the devout to place at the altar of the Virgin Mary and because of that, they were called Mary’s gold and then became known as Marigolds. They were so easy to grow and so beautiful, they grew popular everywhere. In India, Marigolds are, the favorite flower for leis to place around a person’s neck to indicate friendship, and because of that, they have become known as friendship flowers. Many different types of marigolds, from big flowered American and smaller flowered, so called “French”, odor and odorless, are available at your local garden supply store. Marigolds, zinnias, petunias, and many other annuals with bright blooms are natural for adding color. You may also expand the beauty and interest of your floral borders by including low maintenance foliage plants. What are some of the best to add color and texture contrast? Coleus immediately comes to mind and is probably the most popular. Little wonder, it’s so versatile and vivid! The plants with their brilliantly patterned leaves are flashy in sun or shade. You’ll especially appreciate how coleus can transform problem shady spots into rainbow of color. Use it to beautify areas along the north or east sides of your house or garage or in containers on shady porches or patios, even under trees. Coleus can also take direct sun in cooler gardens. Coleus is just as much a favorite houseplant as it is a garden subject. They thrive in pots and are easy to propagate by cuttings. Other favorites include the many varieties of Begonia, Canna, Caladium and Geranium. Other interesting foliage annuals you’ll want to consider are: Euphorbia leucocephala or Snow on the Mountain. This is easy to grow in dry soil and is attractive with its refreshing green and white leaves on plants about two feet tall. Santolina chamaecyparissus or Lavender Cotton makes a nice low hedge. Plants grow about eighteen inches tall and have finely divided, aromatic, silvery-gray foliage and small globular yellow flowers. Handled as an annual in the north, this is a perennial in Hawaii. You can sow seeds of such annuals in boxes, pots, or outdoors. If you use some sort of container, make certain that drainage is good. You can sow the seeds in vermiculite, peat moss, sand, or mixtures of these. You can also buy plants already started at several garden stores and nurseries in the area. If you start your own plants, water them, when seeds are in place, cover containers with a piece of glass or plastic, and place in a protected location away from direct sunlight. In a few days, the seed will germinate and more light will be needed to prevent leggy and poorly colored seedlings. When the first pair of true leaves develop, it is time for transplanting. Set the tiny plants in pots or plant bands. Later, plant them outdoors in their permanent location. Using your creativity, you can brighten your home and garden from now until June.

Is it a weed? A weed may be defined as any plant growing in the wrong place. Some folks even think a plant that is not native is a weed, but with that mind set, even the coconut palm is not native and could be considered a weed. Perhaps an even better definition is “a weed is a plant for which we haven’t found value.” Weeds are really pioneer species taking advantage of vacuums left in the environment after fires, storms or human activities like land clearing. Just like there is no such thing as a bad child only bad behavior, there is no such thing as a bad plant. There is bad management and the spread of Phenax is a great example. Phenax is a Central American plant relatively new to our island and easy to miss, especially the young seedlings. It looks a lot like our native mamaki to which it is related. When first identified along Kaloko Drive in Kona, there was an attempt to eradicate plants by spot herbicide applications. Unfortunately where large plants were sprayed and killed, it left open ground where scores more sprouted. When we create a vacuum by spraying herbicide or clearing our forests for example, we make conditions ideal for pioneer species to take hold. Naupaka is a good example of a native Hawaiian coastal plant found throughout tropical Pacific islands that valuable for stabilizing sands along the beaches. We commonly use it in our landscapes. Introduced to Florida as a landscape plant, it has naturalized along the coast and does stabilize beach sands, but because it is not native, it is called an invasive specie. Perhaps a less negative word to describe what we call weeds would be pioneer species trying to heal the wounds created by man or natural events like lava flows and hurricanes. What we call weeds in lawns are usually the result of poor management. Lawns injured by insects, fungus, or nematodes will readily become infested with pioneer species. Improper mowing, watering, and fertilization will lead to a lawn with which we are not happy. So, don’t blame what we call weeds for a poor lawn. They are often just a symptom of improper maintenance practices. Most folks don’t want Dandelions in their lawn, but Dandelion leaves make a great addition to salads or cooked as greens. When it comes to turf, high quality cuttings or seed, properly established is important. Soil that is not infested with unwanted perennial plants like Wainaku grass or nut sedge is also a basis for preventing problems in a new lawn. After that, proper management practices that result in a dense, vigorous turf will aid in preventing problems. Once those unwanted pioneers get established in lawns, it is difficult to get control. If you ultimately decide you must use an herbicide, then here are some things to consider. Product availability is changing so fast with the pesticide concerns that it is difficult to make general recommendations. Check with your local garden shop or call the Master Gardener Helpline for specific problems. Just like the three “R’s” of learning, we find some very important “R’s” related to the application of herbicides. These “R’s” are to the RIGHT material, at the RIGHT time, in the RIGHT amount, applied in the RIGHT way. Understanding all the instructions of an herbicide label to be sure it will control your specific problem without injuring your plants is as vital as using the right amounts. Safety margins may be smaller than you think. To apply pesticides in the right way, you must choose equipment that will give proper coverage. Spray jars that attach to your garden hose are good where you need to apply nutritional sprays, fungicides or insecticides to the lawn. However, with herbicides, it’s a better idea to use a small 2-3 gallon tank sprayer. A tank sprayer is vital since hose attachments are not accurate enough. If you end up having to pull unwanted species by hand, smile. Let’s take a positive approach to “weeds”. Did you know that many of those seemingly pesky fellows are actually edible or medicinal? Plants we often consider as weeds are usually types that appear wherever we have disturbed the soil. They grow rapidly and often compete with more desirable species. They mature large quantities of seed, and they are often difficult to control. Weeds are often described as undesired plants, plants growing out of place, or plants that are considered a nuisance. Both the characteristics and the definitions of weed emphasize that they are plants closely related to man. They come and go as man disturbs the soil. Just as man has traveled and dominated the land, so have these species benefited from his activities. Because of their origin so close to the activities of man, many plants we call weeds have been discovered to be edible or medicinal, and indeed may be used as beneficial herbs throughout the world. So when you go out to pull what we call weeds, it’s easier if you know they could be for dinner or to help heal a cut or settle an upset stomach. There are more than a hundred edible plants referred to weeds. If you are interested in these and other useful plants, check at the local library or do a computer search for Edible Leaves of the Tropics by Franklin Martin and Ruth M. Ruberte—Mayaguez Institute of Tropical Agriculture, P.O. Box 70, Mayaguez, Puerto Rico, 00708. And again don’t forget, that when we refer to plants as weeds, we have automatically labeled them as being worthless. Better we call them a kinder more neutral term like “pioneer species”! That way we can contemplate the concept that everything and perhaps everyone has value.

Many folks are now improving new and established gardens with mulch, but be wary of where you get it. It is possible to spread insects like the coconut rhinoceros beetle, sugarcane borer and fire ants as well as some diseases. The best source of mulch is one you make or one that is not made up of green waste containing beetle infected plant materials. That said, mulch is great! When weather conditions are dry, it is a good time to explore ways to conserve water. Organic material is essential to good soil. Well decomposed organic matter helps increase water and nutrient holding capacity of the soil. Materials like leaves and clippings used as surface mulch can help conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. Nematodes, those little microscopic worms that feed on your roots, will do less damage in a high organic soil. Organic matter may also increase the minor element and microbiological activity of your soil. For these reasons, save your grass clippings and leaves. They are like money in the bank. You can store these materials in a corner of the garden. Decay of plant material deposited in a compost pile can be hastened through the use of fertilizer. For each bushel of leaves, grass clippings or pruning tips, add two cups of balanced fertilizer and one cup crushed coral or hydrated lime. Build the compost pile in layer-cake method, a layer of plant material six inches deep. Continue until the pile is four feet high or so. After the pile shows signs that decay is well under way, usually 4 to 5 weeks, mix the pile by turning it over. A pitchfork would come in handy at this point. The compost is ready to use in about three months. It is an excellent material to mix with soil for vegetable gardens and new plantings. Anthurium especially thrive on well drained compost mixed with volcanic cinder They love that high organic, well-aerated mix with good water retention capability, yet good drainage. A good mix needs to be able to anchor the roots and stem so that the plant will not topple over as it grows upward yet provide sufficient moisture, nutrients, and aeration to the plant. Cinder or crushed rock added to composted wood shavings, sugar-cane bagasse, macadamia nut shells, or peat or tree bark will serve to better anchor the roots. Even with composting and mulching, you will still need to fertilize your garden. Some Hawaiian soils are very young and low in nutrients. Larger amounts of fertilizer are needed for growing plants and lawn grasses, than where soils are older and better developed. The soil is not only lacking in the primary elements, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but it is deficient in the “minor elements” such as copper, zinc, and boron. When plants are grown in these mineral deficient soils and fertilized with ordinary plant foods, they often develop various deficiencies. Several years ago, plant doctors studied these deficiencies and learned not only how to recognize the affected plants, but they learned also that they could be corrected by spraying with the mineral in which the plant was deficient. But what average gardener has the training that enables him to recognize deficiency symptoms in plants? To overcome this problem, the nutritional spray was developed. It is a mixture that contains about all of the minerals in which a plant can be deficient. At first it was necessary to add lime in order to neutralize these solutions; but now garden stores have mixes that require no lime. Some plants are more subject to mineral deficiencies than are other plants. Especially vulnerable to mineral deficiencies such as dieback, mottled-leaf, small-leaf and yellow-leaf are hibiscus, gardenia, mock orange, ixora, mangoes, avocados, macadamia, coffee and citrus. Two to three times a year is usually enough to apply a nutritional spray. Commercial growers apply the nutritional spray as a preventive measure. It is easier to prevent deficiencies than to correct them. In new gardens, it may be necessary to apply a nutritional spray about every three months for the first year in order to keep ahead of deficiencies. Along with the nutritional spray, it is a good idea to use a soil application of the minor elements. Magnesium, iron and zinc are the most important elements, but occasionally we find plants with boron, manganese, copper and other “trace” element deficiencies. There are several “shot gun” combinations available at your garden supply store. Some plants require larger amounts of certain elements than other plants. As you get acquainted with our tropicals, you will find for example that iron is especially important on ixoras, hibiscus, azaleas, and gardenias or that magnesium keeps leaves of coconut and areca palms from getting orange colored and dying prematurely. Zinc is the vital element in growing Queen palms, Royal palms and palms in the date group. Increasing your soil organic matter and using a “shot gun” treatment as a spray or soil application or both will keep your plants from having these deficiencies under most conditions. Remember to follow directions on the label. Too much of the important plant nutrient materials can be as bad as too little! For further information, contact the office near you. The number for the Hilo Office is 959-9155 and Kona is 322-4893.

We recently returned from a family wedding at Lake Chelan in Eastern Washington. What was most notable was the region that was once desert is now a land of vineyards and fruit orchards. However, there were very few birds, wildlife and even insects. The contrast with Hawaii’s abundant and varied wildlife was astounding. It was too quiet there especially with no bird songs. Coming home, we really appreciated all the interesting animal life we experience in our gardens and forests. Some are native and some not. For example, we have many species of lizards running here and there to feed on insects. The one we have seen for years is called the American Chameleon because of its ability to change colors. We also have Bahamian Anole that is dark brown with diamond markings on the back and a bright red dewlap of the male. There are others as well like the Cuban Anole on Oahu. We also have iguanas, at least eight species of gecko, skinks and at least two species of true Chameleon. We have one species of snake called the Island Blind Snake. However, none are native to Hawaii. In fact there are no native land lizards, snakes, frogs, toads or turtles. Some came as hitchhikers, stowaways and in the days when there were few laws, in the pet trade. Now it is illegal to bring in any of these types of animals and is even penalized by fines and even jail time. With special permits from the Department of Agriculture some are allowed for scientific purposes. Most aforementioned are harmless or even beneficial. They are definitely entertaining, but can be a nuisance depending on ones attitude toward the environment. Local folks often think of geckos in the home are good luck, and almost everyone has a warm spot in their heart for the Gold Dust Day Gecko! These little creatures do add to the magic of our forests and gardens along with all the plants and birds to be found. Visitors to our islands are fascinated by the beauty of our forests and gardens. They usually rave about the palms especially the coconut palms. There are literally hundreds of palms species here that most folks find hard to identify unless they are members of the International Palm Society. All the flowering trees like the Royal Poinciana, Rainbow Showers, African Tulip immediately catch their attention. Hibiscus, Bird of Paradise, Bougainvillea, Heliconia, orchids and Anthurium species grow in abundance. Then there are the fragrant Plumeria, Angel Trumpets, Puakenkene, Gingers, Jasmines, Gardenias and many more combined with warmth and humidity to sweeten the air. Let us not forget the Hawaiian fruits and nuts like the mango, banana, papaya, avocado, Litchi, Macadamia, Rambutan, Guanabana, Cherimoya, Mountain Apple, Guava, coffee, pineapple and Citrus species. Luckily, we have plant societies and University of Hawaii Master Gardeners that can help us learn more about the myriad of plant species found here. Our Hawaiian gardens represent many diverse cultures with which we share our lives. Many plants we associate with Hawaii were introduced in the last 200 years. What was it like for the first Polynesian pioneers who found and developed these islands? Plants found by the first people were endemic, that is, they evolved here and could not be found anywhere else in the world. Another group of plants were the indigenous species. Indigenous means they were found here before human inhabitants, but were also found in other regions like naupaka, Kou, and Milo that grow all through the coastal tropical Pacific. Indigenous and endemic species are considered native. There weren’t many food and fiber plants until the Polynesians brought what we call the Canoe Plants. These were the first exotic, non native species and include the coconut, breadfruit, banana, sugar cane, Kukui nut, sweet potato, noni, turmeric and may others. The forests in those earliest days of human activity were very different than when Captain Cook arrived. What is now pasture used to be forests. Trees like Loulu palms flourished in abundance, but it wasn’t long before the introduction of pigs and rats radically changed things. We have no real clear records of that time, but throughout Polynesia, it is obvious that humans and the animals and plants humans brought with them have had a tremendous impact on the species that evolved on the many isolated islands of Pacifica. Today, erosion is a big problem on most high islands and the rising ocean is swallowing low atolls that have been the homes of islanders for thousands of years. We have a wide variety of plants both native and introduced by many different cultures. By keeping the lush vegetation an integral part of our communities, we actually do our part to fight pollution and make life more enjoyable. As individuals, one of the easiest ways to decrease the carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere is to plant trees. There are a number of trees that can help accomplish this purpose. Among the best are natives like the Loulu palms, Ohia, Hala, Wiliwili, Hoawa, alahe’e and a’ali’i. Other plants, such as the beach and mountain naupaka, are attractive to many birds and also make good ornamentals for a garden. Flowers of the ohia, koa, hau, milo and mamane may even attract some native nectar feeding birds like iiwi, amakihi, apapane, and elepaio. The hala tree is another tree of interest and beauty. Lauhala or leaf of the pandanus plant has probably been used for thousands of years by the Polynesians. Not only are the leaves used for walls, floor mats, and thatched roofs but modern Polynesians weave purses, shopping bags and hats. Even the parts of the fruit, which resembles a pineapple, were eaten during periods of food shortage. Today, island campers will use the fibrous segments as a toothbrush. The Pandanus family, closely related to palms, is found throughout the old world tropics. There are hundreds of species, from miniature shrubs to large trees. Most Pandans may be distinguished by their aerial roots.

In Hawaii, China and Japan, rock and water are used to add interest to the garden. The stone water basins that usually stand outside the teahouses are an example of rock and water used on a small scale. Participants in the tea ceremony first wash their hands and at the same time, symbolically wash away the stain of the noisy and confused outside world. In almost any garden and for whatever reason, the gentle sound and sight of water dripping over cool stones is refreshing. The use of rock and water is becoming very popular for private patio landscaping. Here especially, we enjoy water splashing over rocks into shallow pools. We are fortunate to have a special mix of Eastern and Western culture in Hawaii that allows us to create tropical gardens with the flavor of Bali or Thailand combined with the colonial plantation influence of the last century. Even in the smallest garden patio or condo lanai, we may experience a peaceful mind by creating a small meditation garden. When one is truly in tune with nature, a state of mindful peace may be found in the art of bonsai. According to well known and respected kamaaina, David Fukumoto, founder of Fuku-Bonsai, “Bonsai is now a generic international term. It pays tribute to the Japanese who advanced and spread the art. And yet, it does not adhere rigidly to traditional Japanese guidelines. Throughout the world, bonsai is increasingly a bridge to friendship.” He reminded us that Penjing, the original artistic approach to miniature gardening, preceded bonsai by 1,000 years. It developed in a highly advanced individualistic aristocratic society and was casually practiced as just one of many artistic activities. The horticultural techniques were highly advanced and each effort was interesting. Although the early penjing had a strong philosophical influence, there are numerous modern forms of Chinese penjing.” Here in Hawaii, rocky land abounds. The tendency in the last 40 years was to bull doze a building site flat and then landscape. Today, we are learning to appreciate rock forms, water elements and plants as sculpture. The Eastern influence of Bonsai, penjing and other cultural contributions like the Balinese reverence for banyan trees also contributes to our landscape awareness. If you would like to try your hand at creating a small meditation garden, using rock, water and plants, you can focus on one small tree or a miniature landscape. Before you start to work, here are some tips to help you avoid mistakes. First, you may want to contact a landscape architect familiar with East-West designs. There are also landscape contractors and designers who have done some fine designs. Some local landscape designers have a tropical flare that combine color, texture and fragrance to create a riotous Hawaiian experience. Still others focus on the use of native plants where appropriate. Location and choice of materials are important. Your tropical Asian garden may be located in a sunny area but some shade is usually much better. Sunny locations require plants that prefer intense sun and dryness such as agave, yuccas and cacti. This type of plant material does not fit well with water or eastern design in general. If you have no choice and must use a sunny spot, then either plant shrubs and trees for shade. Shady locations are ideal for that lush tropical growth of ferns, Elephant Ears and palms that look so right near water. Of course if your garden is on the Hilo side or mauka West Hawaii,, then too much sun is not usually a problem. In selecting rock avoid a silly little pile of rocks. Use large boulders, the larger the better. Our native stone is beautiful, but large stones may weigh several hundred pounds. It takes heavy equipment to move stone like this and you will probably be better off contacting a landscape contractor who has the kind of equipment you need. If you are fortunate enough to have natural rock or water elements, then use them. Be sure to place the rocks so that there will be little nooks and crannies for planting, as well as an interesting pattern for the flow of water. Pool construction is not difficult or expensive but does mean some work. Obviously, you need a waterproof basin in which to catch the water. This can be constructed with concrete and wire mesh for a permanent pool. To get the water moving, you will need a small circulating pump. Once you have your pool, try some plants like papyrus and lilies. You can’t beat water lilies for adding a flare of brilliant color to garden ponds and fish pools. The flamboyant tropical water lilies are among the most beautiful of all flowers. Even if you don’t have a fishpond, you can still grow some types. Waterlilies can even be grown in oil drums and washtubs that are sunk into the ground. Large containers like those made locally by Mark Kimball or imported from China and Indonesia make excellent water elements. It’s a good idea to place mosquito fish in the pool. This helps to eliminate mosquito larvae. Also, a few koi and snails add interest. Several books are available to give you ideas on how to design and build your unique garden. Sunset Books has excellent basic publications that are available at bookstores and some garden shops. A beautiful book available our local book stores is “Tropical Asian Style.” There are a few books on Balinese gardens that are also a good source of ideas. Many private homes have been landscaped using rock, water and carefully selected and placed plant materials. Some of the most beautiful are hidden away in gated communities. Others are found in neighborhoods throughout the island, so there are many examples from which to get ideas. The important thing is to spend a little time to create a little heaven here on earth and enjoy it.

Like many other trees from Australia, the macadamia thrives in Hawaii. Others suited to the Islands are many grevillea, melaleuca, callistemon and eucalyptus species. When it comes to our favorite nut, many folks on the mainland think of macadamia nut trees are native to Hawaii, but here we know it is an Australian tree that we adopted as our own. University of Hawaii scientists took the wild forms and developed the many improved varieties we have today. We use the nut in all kinds of local dishes, especially desserts. We even use the leaves for holiday decorations instead of holly. When the first humans arrived in Hawaii, edible nutritional kernels or nuts were hard to find. About the only native nut was the mahoe, or Alectron macrococculus. Polynesian then brought with them the coconut and the kukui nut. Technically, the coconut is not a true nut. Although kukui nut is edible, it can create serious stomach issues when too many are eaten since it is related to the castor bean. So in the arena of foods and nutrition, true nuts were lacking. In the 20th century, University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture researchers literally scoured the tropical world for nut crops that might adapt to some of Hawaii’s diverse climates. Many nut-bearing species like almonds and cashews were introduced but none really found popularity like the Australian macadamia nut. Even though the first macadamias arrived here in the late 1800s, it took years for it to be seriously considered as a commercial crop. Then researchers developed many superior varieties and it wasn’t long before farmers began growing them commercially. Today, when folks think macadamia, they think Hawaii since the best varieties were promoted as Hawaiian macadamias even thought they are now grown in parts of Africa, tropical America and Australia as well. Besides macadamias, let’s consider other nuts with potential here. Cashews fit well in the home garden. The nut or seed develops at the bottom of the cashew fruit. It is easily grown from seed and grows to be a small round-headed tree. Cashew trees are related to mango trees and have irritating sap so the seed must be handled carefully when processing. The juicy fruit is edible fresh or made into juice or even an alcoholic beverage. At higher elevations, above 4,000 feet, pistachios and almonds may possibly be grown, but are not readily available at local nurseries. They may be specially ordered from California, however. Growing conditions that are cool and dry are best. Getting back to the coconut palm, it makes a great tree for the Hawaiian garden. The dwarf Samoan form is the best and available at some local nurseries. The tree will start producing fruit when young and may be easily harvested at near ground level for years. Another advantage is that it is resistant to lethal yellowing disease that killed millions of trees in Florida and the Caribbean. These palms thrive below 1,500 feet elevation, but will not tolerate the long cool temperatures found above that elevation. When was the last time you had pili nut pie, pili nut brittle or pili nut cookies? Unless you have lived in the Philippine Islands it is probably never. How about tropical almond cookies? Again, we don’t see them here but tropical almond confections are popular in Haiti and other parts of the Caribbean. The tropical almond, or false kamani (taxonomically, Terminalia catappa) is originally from the East Indies but now found all over coastal regions of the tropical Pacific. Another delicious but rare nut here is the Brazil nut from the Amazon jungles. Bertholletia excelsa is known to help strengthen your immune system due to antioxidants present. Unfortunately, this tree is only found in a few private and botanical gardens. If you manage to locate a tree, don’t eat the nut. Germinate it. By the way, if you do have a tree or know where one is, please let me know. One of the tastiest nuts found in the Philippines is the pili. The pili nut, Canarium ovatum, is native to the Philippines and is the most important of about 10 nut-bearing species. The tree reaches an ultimate height of about 60 feet. It can be easily kept lower by proper pruning. Leaves are compound like the African tulip. Flowers are yellow, fragrant and form in terminal clusters. Male and female flowers are born on separate trees, so two trees of opposite sexes are required to produce nuts on the female tree. The oblong greenish fruits are black when ripe and are almost 2.5 to 3 inches long. The nut can be eaten raw or roasted and some consider it superior to the almond. The kernel is made into several products, including plain roasted nuts, sugar-coated nuts, pudding and pili nut butter. They are great in nut chocolates and are a source of a good cooking oil. Resin may be tapped from the tree as with the rubber tree. It is used in perfumes, adhesives, plastics, printing inks, paint, varnish and many other products. The University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources has studied pili production for years and found it to grow very well at lower elevations. It is a beautiful tropical tree that should be protected from strong winds and given irrigation where rainfall is below 50 inches of well-distributed rain per year. The limiting factor in growing pili trees is availability of plants. Most trees in Hawaii and the Philippines are grown from seed. Grafting and budding are difficult. Air layering has limited success. Since the University does have a number of trees at the UH experiment station near Hilo, it would be possible to obtain seed by contacting our UHCTAR Agricultural Extension office there. Ask for one of the Master Gardeners to assist you. In Hilo the number is (808) 981-5199. Seeds are not always available, but may be obtained when in fruit. Since 2024 politics make us all feel a bit purple, it is a